Pónaire

Like many artisan food and drink businesses, Pónaire emerged from the vision, ambition, and dedication of two entrepreneurial spirits, husband and wife team Jennifer and Tommy Ryan. It is sustained by the coming together of like-minded people. Jennifer and Tommy’s vision of bringing specialty artisan coffee to their community in Newport Co. Tipperary and beyond is made possible by those inspired by that vision, from coffee farmers and brokers in faraway places to locals working at the roastery, production and packaging facility, or serving in one of Pónaire’s coffee shops.

This is the story of people with a passion for specialty coffee, a passion shared by small local communities in the coffee growing regions of Latin America, Peru, India and Africa, and small local communities across Ireland.

A labour of love

Jennifer and Tommy lived in Denver in Colorado where appreciation for specialty coffee is long-established. In 2006 they made the life-changing decision to walk away from well-paid, successful careers and move to Ireland to set up their own coffee business. They could see the potential in Ireland which was just beginning to develop a coffee culture. They decided to call their new business Pónaire, the Irish word for bean. “In the first two years it was just Tommy and I. Tommy was on the road selling and I was roasting and packing” says Jennifer. While she appreciates the support provided by Enterprise Ireland and others, she is particularly grateful to the team she and Tommy have gathered around them over the years. Today they employ 18 people. Eight years ago, they bought and renovated a derelict building in the heart of Newport which now houses a roastery, production and packaging facility, barista training and coffee shop. They also have a shop in Adare village.

Premium, speciality coffee with its own unique footprint

Proof of the quality of its coffee, Pónaire is sole coffee supplier to discerning 5 star luxury hotels Cashel Palace and Adare Manor. Jennifer remembers the team from Adare Manor visiting for a coffee tasting which was to last an hour – they were enjoying it so much they stayed for four!

To achieve the status of speciality coffee, approved by the Speciality Coffee Association, a coffee is scored on a wide range of criteria from how it is grown, sourced, prepared and stored to how it tastes. Beans must be whole, have no defects and just the right level of humidity. All Pónaire coffees meet these strict criteria.

All are sourced from small local farms where the coffee beans are picked and sorted by hand. Nothing goes to waste. At the end of season trees are pruned and the twigs used for cooking and fuel. The pulp from coffee cherries is used to fertilise other plants. Each coffee is unique – embodying the specific characteristics of the tree and where it is grown – temperature, altitude, soil, sunshine and rainfall – giving each its own unique flavour.

“What makes this unique is the relationship with farmers”

Brokers are the linchpin in the specialty coffee industry, building relationships from the ground up with farmers and small co-operatives and connecting them with specialty coffee businesses.

Belco based in Bordeaux, France is one of the brokers Pónaire works with. They source coffee for Pónaire from Columbia, Honduras, El Salvador and beyond.

Generosity of spirit

“All they want to do is share and give. It’s heartwarming and humbling.”

It is said that the most generous often have the least to give. Jennifer was struck by the generosity shown by coffee farmers and their families on her trip to Kenya and Uganda, describing how the wife of one farmer picked a huge bag of fruit to give them when she visited. She reciprocated, gifting them clothes for their children. It is evident how much it means to both local farmers and specialty coffee businesses to be able to work together, particularly when as Jennifer points out, there are usually up to seven intermediaries separating a producer from the final buyer.

Team spirit

Back in Ireland, the team at Pónaire pull together to keep the wheels in motion. “If the coffee shop is busy, someone will come up from the back to help out, and if the production team is under pressure, someone from the shop will help out.”

Jimmy Judge

Jimmy has worked at Pónaire for 10 years. He monitors stock levels and manages production and packaging. He is meticulous, with a great eye for detail. “He’s great at pulling people together, always talking and laughing, always has a smile”.

Local community

Pónaire is very much part of the local community. There is a well-established relationship with local schools in Newport: St. Mary’s School and Newport College. Each year business students and transition year students are invited to learn the story of Pónaire. Some gain valuable work experience there. “We tell them not to expect to become an expert barista overnight, teamwork is the most important thing, that’s the most important lesson. They can take that anywhere.”